Councils at the use of nails and screws

1. It is hard to drive the nail into the strong rocks of tree. Nails quite often are being bent, causing numerous problems and spoiling the appearance of article. Here usual candle will help. It is enough to wax the nail point - and it will enter greatly easier. So as to “the lubricant” would be always close at hand, you should bore in the handle of hammer the small opening (with the diameter of 5 and the depth of 10-12 mm) and flood it with a wax or paraffin.
2. Nailing the edge of board, you preliminarily should condense the wood in the place of its driving , slightly deepening a punch by the blows of hammer. It will protect the board from the bursting.
3. Nailing a board, you should drive nails not strictly vertically, but into- the mitre, moreover to the different side. The board will be hold on more reliably.
4. The fastening of two boards with nails will come out more reliable, if we bend the overflow sharp ends of nails and drive into the board. It is easy to perform this operation by hammer with the hole for the nail drilled in it.
5. The wooden bar with the cut out nest for the nail will save numerous forces and free from the possible injuries, when it is necessary to drive nails into the wooden articles or to punch metallic components.
6. It is especially difficult to drive a small nail in the almost inaccessible place on the mitre . The most difficult - to place a nail and to make the first snatching on it with a hammer. After sticking on the place, where must be driven into the nail, a piece of plasticine, you easily will manage this task. The plasticine can be removed after 1-2 hammering. In certain cases a small lath will serve as a direct at the driving the nail in the inconvenient place . At the hammering the hand of hammer slides along it.
7. At the driving nails in deepenings we advise to use a steel core and a metal tube, into which it is being packed the nail.
8. In order to protect fingers from the fortuitous hammer blow , it is enough to prepare the simplest holder for nails. In the metallic plate with the length approximately of 100-150 mm it is necessary to saw through the wedge-shaped cut, into which the nails of necessary size are put.
9. Iron comb will help to hold the nail of small length in the necessary position.
10. Strengthening the glass in the frame, use combination pliers - do not drive , but press the nail. Do not forget to insure the frame from the spoiling, after winding the sponge of combination pliers with an insulation tape.
11. If nailhead or the head of screw, which connects two wooden components, must be hidden, then this can be made as follows: you should chip off by chisel thin layer - the shavings of wood ( but not to the end) in that place, where it is necessary to drive into a nail, and drive it . Then drop by glue and stick the shavings into place. The nailhead will utterly disappear.
12. To perform the inverse operation - to find the deeply driven into and puttied nails - will help the magnetized needle on the thread. It must be moved along the board at the height of 1 mm, the needle will be deflected against the nail and place accurately will be indicated. This council will prove useful, for example, during the repair of shaken batten ends.
13. If it is necessary to take out a nail from the board, without having injured its surface, then the piece of rubber tube ,placed under the nail extractor ,will help you.
14. If it is necessary to screw the screw into the hard wood, prick by awl the opening under the screw and pour on the edge of opening a little soap chip. Now wood screw will enter into the tree more easily. To screw a screw into the end of wood chipboard is possible as follows: to drill the opening with a diameter of 0,6 from the diameter of screw. After filling the opening with glue of type “moment” (but not epoxy), in twenty-four hours screw the screw. The plate will not be divided into layers; however, under the load the obtained connection can be placed in twenty-four hours.
15. At the breakout of “obstinate” screw put into the slit a screwdriver and, slightly tapping on it by hammer, simultaneously (into time to the blows) turn it. In this manner you will easily unfasten a screw, without having torn a slit away. It is possible to use another method for the extraction of old screw. Press the screwdriver bit with adjustable spanner, and put its sting into the slit of screw. Pressing by one hand to the screwdriver, the second easily turn the adjustable spanner. The screw will be turned inside out almost effortlessly.
16. It is Not so simple to shorten a bolt by hack-saw , without having damaged in this case its thread. The nut, screwed to the shank of bolt, will help to manage this task.
17. How is it possible to improve a screwdriver? Provided to be, it is very simple - put on to its blade the piece of rubber tube. This case protects not only the working tip of screwdriver, but also pockets. Moved to the cap of screw, it will help to screw up it in the almost inaccessible place. With this nozzle it is more easily to retain screwdriver in the slit of unscrewable screw with the spherical head. Moving under the light pressure to the handle, the nozzle will inform also about the depth of opening.
18. When it is necessary to screw up a screw in the almost inaccessible places, for example, in the blind hole either the narrow slot, a strong thread or a fishing fishing-line will help you. Throw upon a loop from it to the neck of screw, and force ends in the stretched position to the screwdriver by fingers. This improvised “pincers” will make it possible to introduce fastening accurately into the tapped hole hidden in the depth and to make the first turns. At the final pulling the fishing line is being crushed , without leaving a track.
19. After drilling in the handle of screwdriver an opening and after putting into it a magnet, you will obtain the tool, by which it is possible to screw a screw in any almost inaccessible place.
20. If it is necessary to turn away the tight screw, the rusted bolt, the tightly sitting screw, and there is only a small screwdriver with the inconvenient knob, then it is possible to make a screwdriver more “strong” for a few minutes. You should bore in the upper part of the knob through transverse opening. Put into it a driver - the steel rod of the corresponding diameter or simply nail, and you will have a screwdriver with the lever.
21. Manual drill will rescue you, when it is necessary to cover a large quantity of screws. It is necessary only to prepare the bearing rod insertable into a cartridge with a length of approximately 70 mm. So that it would be possible to work by it with any screw, sharpen one end of the rod under the slit, another - under “the cross piece”; you will obtain a convenient and universal tool.
22. In order to screw a screw into the place, inaccessible for the usual screwdriver, we advise to provide yourself with the home-made Г-shaped screwdrivers. It is possible to use another method. Take the hexagedral stick (or a pin with several screwed on it and stopped nuts) and turn one end, giving to it the form of the sting of screwdriver. Put the tool into the wrench and work, by one hand revolving the wrench , and another holding the rod of screwdriver.
23. In order to tighten a screw in the deep and narrow nest, wind around it 3-4 turns of thin soft wire and bend free end so that it would be possible to undertake it by hand. Now you should install a screw and screw it in .
24. The method of breakout of the rusted nuts is familiar. Dents with the depth of 1-2 mm are being made on the borders of nut by chisel . After moistening the thread by kerosene, the nut are being screwed off . Sometimes an “obstinate” nut, which is not yielded to the efforts, applied to the wrench, can be turn away after lengthening the lever.